Italy. What is it about Italy that I find so captivating? This relatively small peninsula jutting into the Mediterranean has made an outsized impact on the world, and my travel consiousness. Other than Canada, I've never taken a trip to any country more than once, but I've gone to Italy three times to explore. The landscape, the food, the cities, and the people keep encouraging me back. That's not likely to change with Delta and Alaska competing to both offer nonstops from Seattle to Rome next year.
While it is folly to think that a few weeks every couple of years is enough to understand a country, what good is travel if it doesn't cause us to try to learn something about the places we go, and share our thoughts and what we think we learned? So lets go.
Rome
Few cities that I know of create such sharply divided opinions as Rome. Some love it, some hate it. Count me firmly in the love column. I'm sure you've heard it said that Rome is dirty, chaotic, beautiful, and hot. It is all these things, but between two trips to Rome over about 8 years, I find it is less chaotic, and dare I say less dirty. The perfect word I think for Rome is scruffy. Its a bit scruffy. Any 2500 year old city has every right to be. But, Rome, I say with a little sadness, is becoming a bit more tamed. There are less scooters, less noise, more tourists, traffic runs smoother, and I no longer feel like crossing the street is a game of pedestrian frogger. It's citizens maybe a little less animated. Sidewalk conversations perhaps a little less passionate. However all the magnificence that Rome is is still there.
Rome is a working metropolis of some 5 million, that manages to squeeze in 35 million visitors a year, all wanting to be in the same 5 square miles. Romans are the most good-humored and welcoming big city dwellers I've encountered in all my travels. They take the constant crush with a smile, a hearty "prego!" at every butchered attempt to order a cappuccino, every bump by a touring mob, every selfie stick slap on the shoulder. Where Parisians seem like they don't care about anyone, or New Yorkers abruptly point you to the right subway stop but want you to know they are put out by doing so (I love NYers, think the abruptness is an act, and they secretly LOVE visitors- but that's a whole other post), Romans still seem to genuinely appreciate you want to see their city, and still, honestly, want you to know why Rome is so great. Rome is not the center of the Western World anymore, but it once was, and those relics reminding you of that fact are everywhere. You can walk in Central Rome, turn a corner, and see a 2000-year Roman ruin incorporated into a building 1600 years younger. You can tour the prison that once held the apostle Paul, see where Julius Caesar was stabbed, and walk the very forum where foundations for Western Civilization were laid. If you plan your timing right, even amongst those 35 million visitors, you can have that forum to yourself and only hear the birds and the crunching of your shoes on the detritus of 2000 years of history, all under a piercing blue sky framed by those oh-so-Roman pine trees. Did Peter walk here? Marcus Aurelius? Probably. The echoes of the past are deafening on a quiet morning in the Forum. Rome, at it's best, is a major chapter of world history, in your face, preserved for all to see, but somehow made personal.
Obviously, Rome is also home of the Catholic Church, and is the earthly spiritual epicenter of 1 billion people. St. Peters (technically in anther country- Vatican City) is the largest church in the world, and appropriately overwhelming. But it too has it's more personal corners. Take a second to pause and stare at Michealangelo's Pieta. I dare you to not be moved by the emotion beaming from the glowing marble. Most will shuffle by and take a selfie. But your patience will be rewarded. Saturate your mind with the tendons and sinew of the crucified and dead Christ. The mother who just lost her son. This could be the most magnificent piece of art in the world. And it's for you, quiet and contemplative if you just linger. The Sistine Chapel is unlikely to be either quiet or contemplative, but to stare at that most famous image in teh art world, God sparking creation of Adam, is to be transfixed by the audacity of the Renaissance. If you just rush from sight to sight, don't take your time, and only look to check a box, Rome could suffocate you. But with patience, a good itinerary, the willingness to linger, Rome richly rewards even the most basic prepared traveller.
Eating in Rome is sport, but a sport best played by the prepared. Contrary to hyperbole, it IS possible to have a terrible meal in Rome. I might even say probable- and you will likely pay more for the privilege- if you aren't selective about restaurants. But for those that put in an hour of research, that are willing to wander just a block or two from the main tourist trail, and the cacio e pepe becomes ethereal- a velvety sauce of cheese, pepper, and water clinging to perfectly cooked bucatini. the pizza becomes perfectly crisp, with just the right amount of toppings chosen for quality, not quantity. The wine is thoughtfully chosen to pair with your amatriciana. Roman cuisine is simple, hearty, and delicious. It is not the red sauce heavy garlic bomb we think of as "Italian" in most of the US. Made by a deft hand, it is magnificent. Simple sauces, hearty pastas dishes, thinner crust pizza with char, and fried appetizers- suppli and artichoke- are wonderful. Restaurants don't rush you, and service is almost always friendly and informal. To a prepared traveler, Rome is fantastic meal after fantastic meal. Go in blind, however, and you may wonder what is all the fuss about? This carbonara feels like bad quality bacon on a jar of Chef boyardee alfredo sauce. And it may be. While the old advice of look for an Italian only menu isn't quite accurate anymore, it's not far from the truth. Plenty of quality places in Rome now translate a menu into English. But the joints with barkers out front and a menu displayed in multiple languages with high prices are usually not worth your time. Unfortunately these establishments usually occupy prime locations. But a place down a side street, with a menu displayed out front in Italian, or a chalkboard with a daily fresh sheet, and packed with well dressed (read: local) diners, regardless if it's written about by the Tire Guy or a trendy blog, is likely outstanding. Likely a reservation is necessary- but you can always ask about a table the next day and make that reservation in person. Or, ask your concierge or even Airbnb host to make a reservation if you know ahead of time. Talk to the restaurant's sommelier or wine steward (even basic Roman Trattorias may have one- not at all the sole domain of luxury restaurants) about the Lazio wine. Lazio is the region around Rome, and while many diners want the prestige of a barolo or brunello, or the familiarity of Chianti, Lazio wines are delicious, rustic, and pair perfectly with Roman cuisine. Watch the somm or waiter light up with appreciation and enthusiasm about your curiosity.
All this to say, Rome lives up to its Eternal City moniker. Rome is worth whatever you can give it, and pays back every bit of effort with interest.
Tuscany
If Rome is overwhelming or chaotic, it's antidote is Tuscany. Only 90 minutes from Rome, you've likely heard of Tuscany, and have some image in your mind- cypress trees lining winding lanes, golden fields of wheat, or vineyards draped on sun drenched hillsides. These are all accurate. What may be missing from the collective idea of Tuscany is that it's farm country. Sure there are coastal industrial centers, a few bigger cities, and that leaning tower, but at it's heart, Tuscany is farming. Whether wheat, or grapes, or some other crop, to drive through the Tuscan countryside is to see generations-old farms worked by farmers. The food is simple, and Tuscans are justifiably proud of their magnificently beautiful corner of Europe. Parts of Tuscany are so beautiful, such as the Val d'Orcia, that the UN designates them as world heritage sights just for the view. After being in rural Tuscany for a day, I caught myself wondering what is there to do? The answer is really not much- in the best sense of that phrase. There are world class wineries, lovely hilltop villages, a few beautiful hot springs, and delightfully straightforward food. But what's best about Tuscany is it's ok to slow down and rest. The days are long, the light is beautiful, and the land is gorgeous.
Tuscany is old. Tuscan civilization, the Etruscans, predates the Roman Empire. Travel around Tuscany and you will come across ancient tombs, and a few arches made by the Etruscans. Tuscans are still proudly Tuscan and seem to highlight their Etruscan roots wherever possible. The food is Tuscan. Pasta takes a back seat to grilled meats and white beans. The sauces lighter and fresher. All those ingredients from those farms are messed with as little as possible to showcase the freshness and quality.
One of the great travel experiences in Italy is to stay on a farm- and nowhere seems a better opportunity to do that than in Tuscany. Agriturismos dot the countryside, and must still be a working farm to enjoy that designation. Agriturismos run the spectrum of luxury almost Four Seasons-type facilities to fairly rustic lodges with no A/C but perfect locations and wonderful food- which was my experience this trip. Al Rigo, a basic agriturismo with a hot room but a magnificent location and equally magnificent food, sits in the middle of 2000 hectares (almost 5000 acres) of farmland they actively work, in the heart of the Val d'Orcia with unimpeded views of that region. What the farm lacked in cooling they more than made up for in food and views. All farm to table and freshly prepared, meals shined and hospitality perfect, showcasing their produce. Faro, basil, corn, and guinea fowl. Strawberry cake and poppy seed bread made with wheat from the farm. With wine the owner pointed out was made "from vineyards that are visible from the deck outside". Tuscany is quite simply all it's cracked up to be, and probably more. Just don't go looking for excitement, at least not in the rural parts. It's slow down, get to know the land its people travel. I hope it never changes.
Cinque Terre
The Cinque Terre was possibly the biggest unknown to me on this trip. I'd heard great things, and some not-so-great; the great that it is undeniably beautiful, the not so that it is overwhelmed by crowds and has been ruined by the cruise ship industry. I found the great to be true, and the cruise crowds, while true, avoidable. That being said, I would not recommend visiting Cinque Terre as a cruise passenger. The towns too small, the character too different for day trippers being rushed in hoping for a slice of a quiet, Italian Riviera Ideal. But let's talk about the great. The area is as advertised. It is sensationally beautiful. Terraced vineyards cascade down steep mountains, and wrap around pastel villages that themselves plunge into the impossibly blue Mediterranean. It's pinch me is this real beautiful. So beautiful the whole region is a National Park. Some of the most magnificent trails I've hiked wind from village to village.
There are five Cinque Terre towns, and four of those, Monterosso, Vernazza, Riomagiore, and Manarolo seemed somewhat interchangeable. Not in a bad way, but much the same basically (but again, each beautiful). I chose to stay in the middle, smallest, and only village not on the water, Corniglia. Initially a bit nervous about that choice, I'm glad that was home base. Corniglia has an intensely atmospheric main lane (downtown if you will) that is still remarkably filled with locals. It also has a couple of fantastic restaurants. In one, the idea of "scarpetta" was kindly pointed out to me by the friendly waitress. I had some sauce left on my plate from dinner, and the young woman asked if wanted bread for scarpetta. I admitted I did not know what she meant. She enthusiastically cut me some fresh bread, mimed sopping up the sauce, and enthusiastically watched as I repeated the action. She let me know all real Italians partake of "scarpetta" and it's acceptable everywhere. Indeed when I asked later in the trip for bread for scarpetta, the chef graciously supplied more bread and said that chefs take that as a compliment and enjoy watching diners not want to waste their work! Cinque Terre cuisine is also very local. Being in Liguria, the home of Pesto, that delicious green sauce makes appearances everywhere. Seafood is huge, and the local fish is actually the anchovy. Served fresh instead of preserved, and with olive oil and lemon, the little oily fishes are delicious. Octopus makes frequent appearances, as do whatever fish the fisherman happen upon that day. Focaccia is also from liguria, so that bread is near ubiquitous. Food is fresh, not overly complicated, and incredibly delicious. The Cinque Terre wine is unique. almost exclusively white made from local grapes I cannot pronounce, the wine pairs exquisitely with the local food. It's light, flavorful, and oddly refined. It's not well known outside of Italy, as production is very low and they consume most of it all in Italy.
All the towns are crowded from about 10-7. The central areas are almost unwalkable with the amount of people, and stores feel like sardine cans. And I don't think I was there on any heavy cruise days. I can't imagine a few thousand more people cramming the towns. But before and after the Cruisers and daytrippers arrive, the region is quieter, less crowded, and unhurried. The streets return to the locals and overnight guests, and the restaurants more relaxed. Interestingly, I did experience the towns with almost no cruise ship passengers. An Italian Train strike struck fear into the cruise lines, and they must've discouraged passengers from journeying far from the port in La Spezia out of concern of not getting back to ship. Shop owners seemed bewildered at the lack of crowds. Much of the magic of Cinque Terre is seeing the towns from a nearby mountainside, and watching the sun slip into Med from a table at a cafe. I honestly don't think you can get the real experience of Cinque Terre in a few hours as quick stop. That experience will be crowded shops, packed restaurants, and maybe a quick dip in the sea. If that's what you can give this area, skip it. IF you have few days, I can't encourage you enough to come see for yourself why the raves exist. I've heard and seen anecdotes of Italians rebelling and protesting overtourism. I'm sure there is some truth, but in one of the poster children of overtourism, the Cinque Terre, I only experienced trademark Italian hospitality and good humor. I would love to go back and stay again someday.
Florence
Florence, quite simply, is what I believe to be the finest European city, and maybe the most beautiful. The capital of Tuscany, set in green hills in the northern part of the province, no city packs so much in such a small footprint. It has everything it's bigger rivals such as Paris, London, or Rome have, but in a much more manageable space. Incredible cathedrals, public squares, shopping, world class food, and premier museums all walkable in 30 minutes. The cradle of the Renaissance, Florence has had an enormous impact on world history, and is a microcosm of European travel dreams.
Walking the lanes of Florence, it immediately has a "feel" of gentility, past prosperity, and grandeur. All while being approachable. Sandwiches and wine shops, leather good merchants, and designers all compete for space. And seemingly all those routes lead to the most beautiful building in all of Europe: The Duomo. A sensational green and white cathedral, no building looms quite as large, but yet so elegantly, on all the continent. Curiously, it doesn't cast everpresent in every scene. The layout of the streets conceals it, until it pops out after a turn, announcing itself all at once in its splendour. I've been to Florence three times, and the Duomo never ceases to inspire awe. The public square on it's north side is a zoo of humanity from all the world over, and the walk from the Duomo to Ponte Vecchio, a bridge over the Arno, one of the great people watching routes on the globe.
Florence was once the home of Michealangelo, Galileo, and Da Vinci, so it's no surprise that the Uffizi and Accademia count among the finest museums in the world. It is said the Dark Ages ended in Florence, and that heritage seems to live on.
Florence sits on the northern edge of Chianti, a renown wine growing region. If your idea of Chianti is straw covered squat bottles of cheap plonk, it's time to rethink that. Refined, beautiful wine that is meant to be enjoyed young with food, Chianti makes fine wine, and an outstanding day trip from Central Florence. The food in Florence is likewise justifiably renown. Well known for sandwiches, steak, and truffles, Florentine food retains it's simple Tuscan sensibility and is approachable and delicious. Even truffles, where in the US are the domain of fine-dining institutions with the requisite hefty price tag, Truffles are a treat for everyone in Florence- while not necessarily cheap, they are not the rarifed snob food we've come to think of them in the US. And they are, in a word, sensational. Try them on pasta with a simple cream sauce. Thank me later.
I think it's quite evident I'm immensely fond of Italy. This was only one trip. The mountains to the north- both the Alps around Aosta and the Dolomites; Venice; Milan, and parts I've never seen are all incredible. Italy has given the world so much, and Italians are still eager to share those gifts with the worlds people as they continue to pile in by the planeload. I can't recommend Italy enough, and still didn't do it or it's wonderful people, food, culture, and history justice in this post. If you can, go see for yourself. If you don't know where to start, call me.
